Last
week: Holby City in the Bake Off tent as Johnuendo was attacked by a
magi-mix and then they all lived happily ever after for a week
because no-one got culled. Hilariously, whilst everyone else hugged
it out with joyful relief, Brendan’s face was completely impassive
when it was announced that no-one was leaving. I’ll generously say
it’s because he was too busy floating on Star Baker Cloud Nine.
This
week: bun fun. Mary is wearing (what looks like) a garish
multi-coloured shell suit jacket. It’s actually floral, which I
understand is bang on trend, although perhaps not in shiny tracksuit
form. I predict Brendan will use it as inspiration for his
show-stopper.
Thundercats...
Dough!
Signature
bake: Twenty-four buns
Sue
lists a whole load of bun types they might want to make, including
Chelsea, Bath and “Mary Berry’s hot buns” - Sarah-Jane promptly
smirks and John supportively raises an eyebrow. (I think we can
expect a lot of this.) Smut aside, it’s all about yeasty dough and
'proving' this week – which is just a quick way of saying ‘shoving
your dough in a cupboard and waiting several hours for to rise’.
Everyone gets stuck in to the dough, quite literally, as their
fingers and hands are immediately covered in a fairly yucky porridge
paste. I’m particularly worried about Ryan’s glasses - how will
he be able to push them up his nose if his fingers are all doughy?
As
we start our tour of the kitchens, we get another glimpse into
Brendan World – this time we're transported to his living room,
where he’s serving something tarty to a room full of delighted
guests. (I imagine them gossiping about how dashing Brendan's man is
and bitching about that neighbour that would barely open her patio to
him.)
Back
in the tent, we discover that Brendan's making Chelsea Bunskis, a
name he made up because of the Eastern European influence that comes
from including Polish poppy seeds. Mel, whose dad is
Polish-Lithuanian (thank you Wikipedia), says he could call them
“bunkoviets”, as poppy seed cakes are called ‘mucoviets’.
Brendan looks tickled and says “you must show me how to spell it
and that’s what we’ll call them” - I think it’s fair to say
that this is not how he would have reacted to Sue making the same
suggestion. Doughski doneski, Brendan pours out steaming, ground up
poppy seed on to a tray and starts patting it with a spatula - it
looks like hot soil and about as appetising. However, Cathryn comes
over for a sniff and whispers “ooooh, I like that”.
Danny,
going for Bakewell Chelsea Buns, is sporting new turquoise Converse
daps this week, after her royal blue ones got covered in fondant cake
poo. Meanwhile, James Shetland is making Easter Chelsea Buns, which
are essentially hot cross buns made of wholemeal flour and cider.
YES, CIDER!!! Less excitingly, James is knitwear-free. I fear the worst
– this can only have a Samson-like, negative effect on his cooking
abilities.
John
is carefully checking off a recipe list for his Chelsea and Almond
Saffron Buns, so *evidently* he’s going to forget a key ingredient
come baking (turns out it’s only the bloody almond). As he puts
them in the oven he wishes them “Good luck, little buns, good
luck”, which is adorable. Sadly good luck is not on his buns'
side, as he decides “they look awful” when he takes them out.
Staring at them doesn't help - “What is WRONG with them?” he
despairs. (And this is before he realises the lack of almond.)
Over
the other side, Paul asks Cathryn “tell us about your buns please?”
(snarff snarff). The surprising answer is “they’re called Lady
Arundell Manchet Buns”. However, Paul, who is very familiar with
Lady Arundell’s buns, promptly steals the only fact Cathryn knew
about them, which is that they’re from the fifteenth century.
Turns out Lady Arundell’s buns are also good and sturdy - Cathryn
drops a few as they come out of the oven, but they basically bounce
back off the carpet. “They’re robust!” she’s relieved to
note.
Ryan
is once again rushing last minute in order to finish his Lardy Cakes
in time. Making lardy cakes involves stuffing serious amounts of
lard into the dough, folding, then restuffing more lard in, folding,
restuffing more lard in, folding and restuffing etc etc etc. His
glasses are dough-free, but also dangling on the edge of his nose, so
he probably just hasn’t pushed them up for the past few hours.
(HOW CAN HE COPE? IT WOULD DO MY FACE IN!!)
Finally,
we learn that Sarah-Jane is making Orange and Nutmeg Cornish Saffron
Buns, which she tells us should be “perfectly domed shiny orange
buns”. Argh, don’t tempt fate SJ - even though she’s probably
the weakest left, I’m gunning for her to do well, even if it’s
just to finish on a high.
Interestingly,
her chosen bake is the subject of this week’s food history bumpf –
will that be a good omen?
Foodistory
#1: Cornish Saffron Buns
Turns
out that Saffron Buns were invented by the Cornish Methodists to
bribe the locals into not drinking themselves into a stupor on their
days off. As the power of buns alone was not sufficient to stop
alcoholism, they also launched a special teetotal day, called the
Cornish Tea Treat, where booze was swapped for sugar and mucho bun
fun, and they had a procession to celebrate how Jesus and his
disciples just couldn’t get enough saffron bun goodness. (That last
part might not be 100% correct.)
But
enough about Jesus’ buns, let’s get to judging.
Paul
says Cathryn’s “look pretty good” (they look like hamburgers to
me – which I’m not saying isn’t ‘pretty good’), are “the
right size” and “all different colours”. However her “bottoms
are quite tight” (ahem) and Mary wanted even more cream (easy now).
Paul also thinks some of them are burned, which Cathryn finds a bit
harsh.
John
thinks he’s underproved, but Paul tells him “the structure looks
alright”. However, the taste is found bland. Mary asks him if he
put almond extract in and the penny drops; “I forgot” he admits.
Unsmiley face.
Danny’s
made huge buns - “for good appetites” says Mary, who is wide-eyed
and keen to tuck in. “Sheer heaven to eat” she adds. “They
look great” agrees Paul. “Great
buns, Danny” says Sue.
Paul
takes a bite of Ryan’s lardy cake and emits a low groan, before
producing a throaty chuckle, holding up the cake and saying ......
*dramatic pause* ........ “THAT is a good texture. It’s
excellent. I can’t argue with the bake on that.” Mary also
throws in some compliments, but the camera stays on Paul stuffing his
face. “They taste great” he declares and shakes Ryan’s hand.
“Well done, Ryan, well done. They are very, very good.” Praise
indeed.
James’
buns come undone – Paul helpfully tells him “the filling doesn’t
bind” and it’s a bit “crusty”. Mary loves the flavour
though.
Sarah-Jane’s
buns are “dainty”, but sadly, Paul tells her they are
underproved. Mary finds them “a bit dry and a bit lacking in
flavour” which is a right old shame for our Sarah-Jane, who puts
her usual smiley brave face on.
The
structure inside Brendan’s bunskis is “very even” and “holding
together”. More praise for the taste and texture - “really
lovely and soft and totally original”. “Congratulationski”
says Sue, and Brendan gives off what may or may not be a forced
laugh. (Oh, they love each other really.)
Judging
done, we see a lovely, but wholly random shot of a massive ewe
looking indignant. I’m immediately reminded of Wellington week.
Ryan,
who has done oh so well, looks shell-shocked, but that’s probably
because he knows the score by now – the technical challenge is NOT
HIS FRIEND. And it’s a toughie. Again.
The
Technical Challenge: Jam doughnuts
John
immediately rolls his eyes and Sarah-Jane does the giggle of denial.
Mel explains that the judges want consistency of size, colour and jam
distribution.
We’re
informed that doughnuts originated in Holland where they were called
“oliekoek”,
which means ‘oily cake’
(which totally backs up my theory that Dutch is a perfect mix of
English words with a comedy accent and German that’s been recorded
and played backwards). Oily cake sounds pretty disgusting but I can
image that it would nonetheless appeal to someone in a ‘relaxed’
state of mind with a severe case of the munchies.
Paul
reveals his platter of perfect doughnuts and Mary calls them
“absolute whoppers”. Paul then explains how unless a precise
series of exacting circumstances are perfectly re-created in their
entirety, they’ll fuck it up.
Everyone
looks confused by the doughnut process, bar James who reveals he has
made them many many times before – how better to combat a dark
windy Shetland night than by making an army of doughnuts? He does,
however, recognise that he’s at an unfair advantage and reflects on
how it will be embarrassing if he doesn’t make really good ‘uns.
Ryan,
who confesses he is also experienced - in doughnut eating - is
implementing PMA as he concedes that at least this time he knows what
the end product should look like. The others just look peeved and
it’s certainly true that the kneading process looks particularly
frustrating – Cathryn, covered in the stuff, surmises that it’s
like kneading a big ball of chewing gum. Ugh.
John,
I’ve just noticed, is wearing welly boots indoors. Perhaps he's
still scared of the magi-mix.
Foodistory
#2: Doughnut dollies
In
1942, homesick US soldiers based in the UK were cheered up by the
so-called Doughnut Dollies; namely, pretty charmers who served up
doughnut and flirting at the service clubs (think air hostess meet
dinner lady and that Christina Aguilera video Candyman, only in a
church hall). It was so successful that the American Red Cross took
it nationwide and turned old buses into mobile doughnut kitchens and
got desperate-for-doughnut queues around the block. The wartime
equivalent of the 2am kebab van, if you will.
“Two
hours left, you DOUGHNUTS!” calls Sue, complete with Dick Van Dyke
cockney inflection.
James
shows us how he charmed his girlfriend (hurrumph) by saying that the
most satisfying thing in the whole wide world is putting a lump of
dough on the scales and it being exactly the weight you want it to
be.
Out
come the deep fat fryers! (No SMEG branding in sight.) Cathryn
wonders whether she should be the first to “take the oily plunge”?
(Johnuendo is obviously catching). “Oh my giddy aunt” she says
as she plopadops her doughnut in. There is no fire or explosion of
any kind, so we’re all good.
After
deep frying, comes sugar bathing, where the doughnut is rolled in a
bowl until it's covered with a teeth-rotting amount of caster sugar.
Then it’s time for the jam injection – medical student James and
intensive care consultant Danny must be at an advantage, as it
literally is injected into the doughnut with a big perspex needle.
Mel flirts with James over his neat injection skills. At the other
end of the spectrum, Cathryn’s jam is gushing out. “DOUGHNUT
DOOM!” she announces.
Do-nuts
or don’t-nuts?! Paul assesses the colour and bake, while Mary is
more interested in jam to doughnut ratio. It’s a fairly motley
bunch, but Paul says Danny’s batch “has a bounce on it” (Mary
translates that that means “it’s very nice”.) Sarah-Jane’s
are “raw” (doh!) and she comes bottom, followed by Ryan
(“overproved”), Cathryn (“bit flat”), Brendan (“not quite
done”), with John third (though it was close between him and the
B-man) and Danny a pleasing second. James breathes a sigh of relief
as he takes first place.
This
time the random filler animal shot is of a bright-eyed rabbit. Cute,
but still edible.
Show-stopper:
Celebratory enriched dough loaf
Festive
brioche or stollen or the like. The dough can take twelve hours to
prove, so several of the bakers are starting on that tonight and will
leave it overnight, hoping it will merrily rise up in the proving
drawer. The advantage of the all-night prove is a more flavoursome
dough – provided it works... Those who are happy to wait til
tomorrow to get their dough on start to prepare their filling
instead, but they will have to compensate by adding extra flavour to
the dough somewhere down the line.
Danny
is making a European Christmas Wreath, which is a sort of
stollen-brioche mix, with orange curd and sultanas in it. She
usually leaves the dough in her outer hall to rise (I am immediately
nosey about the rest of her house), but worries that she doesn’t
know how that will compare to the Bake Off marquee temperature.
James
and John are making a sponge starter to form a motherdough. A
motherdough!!! I have no idea what on earth than means, but it is
still quite simply THE BEST BAKING TERM IN THE WORLD. James’
motherdough will eventually morph into a Whisky Kugelkopf-Brioche
Baba. Clearly he was drunk when he made that one up, and indeed, he
gleefully tells us that he intends to put “half a bottle of whisky”
in his dough loaf. Wowsers. He recognises this is unlikely to
please Paul.
John’s
motherdough will become a Marzipan Stollen. He again wishes his mix
“good luck” as he puts it to bed in the proving draw, forgetting
that really really didn't work last time. The bakers then head off
to have a sleepless night of competitive baking worry. I imagine
them all in a dormitory, or at least all gathered in the big house,
calling out to wish each other good night, Waltons style. “Good
night Brendan”, “Good night John-Boy.”
It’s
the morning after and James is still not in knitwear. The bakers
rush across the lawn to see if the doughing got tough or the tough
got doughing. John realises he should have taken his out of the
fridge earlier and he’s going to have to bin it as “the reaction
to the two heats has made a stiff mess”. Johnuendo is BACK!
Cathryn
has clearly just picked a random festival (Guy Fawkes) and decided
there's no reason not to eat cake then – GOOD GIRL. She calls it
Bonfire Night Tear’N’Share Brioche, which is clearly ironic, as
it doesn’t look like the kind of cake you want to share under any
circumstances.
“Is
it a seventies delight today Brendan or maybe the eighties?” No,
that's not from Sue! It’s Paul who wants in on the Brendan
jibbing. Undeterred, Brendan replies he’s making a Black Forest
Christmas Stollen. No comment. He then primly describes how he sees
it as “the centrepiece for a Christmas buffet table” and, well,
God knows what face Paul is making, but Brendan is suddenly reduced
to giggles by his own description – I think he's twigged how the
combination of 'black forest', 'centrepiece' and 'Christmas buffet
table' might all be lovely, but also, well, a little dated. He stops
his giggles to tell the camera he sees himself “as a bridge between
the seventies and today” and that he’s “trying to give the
seventies a modern twist”. He takes a shifty look to the side,
where Paul was just lingering, and says “I hope he heard that”.
Whether
Paul heard that or not is irrelevant, as the evidence speaks for
itself; Brendan’s brought his own cake mould, designed to produce
a cake shaped like a cathedral, and he plans to decorate his stollen
with marzipan and apricot – frankly, we're only missing some
sideburns, a fondue set and a bowl full of car keys for the whole
seventies hog.
Mind
you, John’s just lined up a million glacé cherries and some
chocolate buttons on marzipan, so I think Brendan’s got
competition.
Back
in the modern day, Ryan is the only one opting for a savoury dish. “I
thought I’d do something Chinese” – a Cahr Siu Bao, no less,
which is pork loaf and hoi sin sauce, traditionally given at Chinese
New Year. It sounds nothing short of AMAZING. I think it’s the
dish I have most coveted since the start of the series, including
John’s venison and haggis welly. WANT WANT WANT.
Sarah-Jane
is making a Sour Cherry and Dark Chocolate Christmas Plait – which
is risky, as we've already seen her admit that hairdressing is not
one of her special skills. Mel remembers that too and kindly calls
her a loon. Sarah-Jane starts to count aloud and visualise her overs
and unders, by doing some air-plaiting. Mel joins in with the “over
one, under two” mantra and accompanying hand signals – it's like
baking tai chi.
I
thought the hospital drama was over, but we get another scene that
the squeamish will particularly enjoy, as James cuts the top off his
whisky jelly and Sue likens it to slicing an enormous cornea. Sue
and James proceed to each eat a whisky jelly cube and are immediately
drunk; they giggle uncontrollably, repeating “goodness that is
strong”. You can tell they are dying to do a whole line of cubes
before hit the dance floor, but the camera pans away - I’m guessing
a producer stepped in. If only to stop Mary from joining them.
We
get a montage of doughs coming out of the oven – with mixed
results. Ryan points out a multitude of technical issues relating to
his pork pun (noooooooo), Sarah-Jane has a bit of plait splitting,
Danny's bri-stollen-oche hasn't rising as much as it does at home,
whilst Brendan's cathedral mould has worked perfectly.
And
so, the judging hour approaches.
Brendan
brings up his creation, which is show-stopping indeed. Sure, it's
straight out of his favourite era, but he has absolutely nailed his
“centrepiece for a Christmas buffet table” concept, with pine
cones, sweeties and a massive red candle stuck on the top of his
cathedral cake. He is praised on bake, texture and flavour.
Sarah-Jane,
unbelievably, has produced ANOTHER raw bake. She can't believe it.
At least she “did get the flavours right”.
Ryan's
pork bun looks quite sad - “it doesn't have that 'wow' and doesn't
feel 'celebration' to me” admits Mary. “We have an issue” says
Paul, cutting into it – it's mushy and raw inside. Mary liked the
flavour and concept, but “it just didn't quite get there”.
Danny,
who slurped thick white icing over her bri-stollen-oche in the name
of 'decoration' claimed she wanted it to look messy and wasn't going
for perfect. Well, she was successful in that, if you ask me. The
judges liked it, however, calling it “festive” with “a good
colour”. Mary thought “the flavour is absolutely delicious and I
can taste the separate flavours”. Paul agrees “Excellent. Thanks
Danny.”
John's
offering “looks a little on the flat side” to Mary, which would
be fine if we were talking stomachs, but is probably less desirable
in stollen world. She thinks it's also “on the stodgy side”,
which is good for neither tummy nor baking. Paul says “it's
beginning to weld my mouth together, which is probably a good thing”
- that way poor John doesn't have to hear any more criticism. Still,
“good marzipan”.
Cathryn
has shoehorned in some Guy Fawkes-related festivity by sticking a
sparkler on top of her tear'n'share. Even though Paul had previously
sneered at the excessive amount of cinnamon in her dough, he admits
that the flavour balance is good. Mary is also pro - “Lovely
flavour, nice and sweet, the icing's good”, but it does “feel
more like a cake” and doesn't have the right “aeration”.
James
brings up his whisky mist and even Mary has to concede that “the
whisky flavour is a little over the top”. (James laughs, but
that's because he's still pissed from the cube shots he and Sue did.)
Paul isn't too keen on the structure and tells him to “concentrate
on his flavours”.
Time
for deliberations and the double cull. But first...
Star
baker: “This week the star
baker is someone uniquely qualified to offer intensive care to any
flagging bun. Finally, Danny!” Well put Sue. Sadly no shot of
Brendan's reaction. (Am sure he was totally fine about it.)
Leaving
this week: First
to be announced - Sarah-Jane, which wasn't a surprise after several
raw bakes, and the second leaver is... Ryan – again, I think we
were probably expecting that. It's all very sad, as it felt that all
the remaining bakers had properly bonded into a merry gang. But both
Ryan and Sarah-Jane are really positive about the experience – Ryan
promises to continuing messing up his wife's kitchen and Sarah-Jane
is delighted to have got to week seven. I also hope that taking the
train alone is no longer a terrifying prospect for our SJ.
Next
time: biscuits!
Crackers, crisp breads and gingerbread sim city, as the bakers create
an entire metropolis of ginger buildings. Also, SHORTS! James and
John get their legs out - and a nation swoons. Well, sort of.
Sue's
buns-watch:
“It’s
a bun fight to the finish.”
“Bakers,
one hour until I can sink my teeth into your buns.”
“OK,
bakers you should all have buns in the oven.”
And
a guest appearance from Danny Intensive Care: “getting star baker
is just the icing on the cake”.
Missed
pun-portunity:
Nah,
she got them all in.